Bethesda:
The old slate town of Bethesda lies at the foot of the Nant Ffrancon
Pass and among the towering peaks of Snowdonia can be seen man-made
wonders such as the Penrhyn Quarry (the largest opencast slate
quarry in the world). From here the slate was transported a short
distance to Port Penrhyn in Bangor.
But
the village is best known as a starting point to discover the delights
of walking or climbing Snowdonia. The Nant Ffrancon Pass climbs
up into a desolate wilderness along a route called "the most
dreadful horse path in Wales" before Thomas Telford carved
out the A5 through the valley. The pass is sandwiched between two
of the region's most spectacular mountain ranges. The uplands to
the east of the road are filled with the Carneddau, the collective
name for Wales' second highest mountains. The raw, elemental and
often unforgiving side to Snowdonia is tangible here as Carnedd
Dafydd at 342 ft (1044m) and Carnedd Llywelyn at 3485ft (1066m)
both named after medieval royal brothers.
On
the opposite side of the road are the Glyderau, a ramshackle range
strewn with boulders and as near to a wilderness as its possible
to get within a few miles walking of civilisation. The most famous
of these peaks is Tryfan (the trident), and although it's a mere
3010ft (917m) this fierce, volcanic outcrop is possibly the most
challenging summit in the whole of north Wales that can be scaled
without resorting to ropes and climbing. This was the region in
which the first successful Everest expedition trained in the early
1950's (the names of the team members are written on the ceiling
of the Pen-y-Gwryd Inn, a famous mountain hostelry near Capell Curig.
Tryfan
rises above the roadside and the lake of Llyn Ogwen. Llyn Idwal
is accessible by path from the road, and hidden away within the
eerie Cwm Idwal (this area was the first to be created a National
Nature Reserve in Wales). This famous valley has become known in
English as the Devil's Kitchen, because according to legend no bird
ever flies there. Yet it still attracts hundreds of visitors every
year.